One of the few Tavel estates under outside ownership, the rather gorgeous Priory is one of the big-four old estates. Although the quality is thoroughly respectable, the wines are undoubtedly the lightest and palest of the appellation, and struggle to carve out their own identity or personality. For such a historic Chateau, mentioned in papal documents going back to the middle ages, this is all the more disappointing as it has the potential to be the appellation’s flagship traditionalist.