By Nicole Wolbers
In the world of wine, rosé often conjures up images of sun-drenched Provençal terraces, where pale pink elixirs are savored amid lavender meadows and Mediterranean breezes. France has long defined this style as a leisurely indulgence: light, refreshing and effortlessly chic. Yet, beyond the Rhine, a subtle transformation is unfolding.
Fashioned from Spätburgunder (Germany’s take on Pinot Noir), German rosé is emerging not as a casual refresher, but as a high-quality creation worthy of serious consideration. Renowned for its world-class Rieslings and increasingly acclaimed red Pinot Noirs, the nation is now directing that skill toward this emerging yet expanding segment. These offerings fuse craftsmanship and local nuance with a crisp, distinctive flair, setting them apart from their French equivalents.
As a wine writer and rosé aficionado, I approach this topic with a keen curiosity and commitment. The journey uncovers the historical roots and shifting perspectives on Spätburgunder rosé, alongside prime areas and standout examples that capture only a sliver of the country’s premium selections. It’s a tale of realised potential, where cool-climate expertise meets creative techniques to yield pink wines that are anything but ordinary.
A Glimpse into History: The Development of Spätburgunder Rosé
Rosé traces its origins to Phoenician times, when Mediterranean traditions involved diluting reds to form pale, tinted drinks. In Germany, the story of Pinot Noir begins with the Romans, who planted vines along the Rhine and Mosel valleys circa 100 BC and likely introduced early Pinot variants. Ninth-century records show Emperor Karl III bringing “Clävner” cuttings from Burgundy. By medieval times, Cistercian and Benedictine monks refined viticulture, focusing Spätburgunder for reds. The term, meaning “late-ripening”, highlights its cycle relative to other Burgundian types. Rosé, often a by-product or a red-white mix, remained a footnote; today, such blending is banned except in Champagne.
Through the 19th and 20th centuries, local vintners favored sweet whites and mild reds. Rosé was considered a basic, semi-sweet option for regional consumption. Many recall the fame of off-dry exports like Black Tower or Blue Nun, which persist today. Following this trend: pink variants of these labels are now on offer.
Championing Spätburgunder
Locals prize Spätburgunder, with plantings reaching about 11,500 hectares in 2023 – comprising 11.5% of the 103,000-hectare total vineyard expanse, per the German Wine Institute. As the top red grape variety, it leads pink production, accounting for 50–60%, supplemented by sorts like Portugieser and Dornfelder. For superior quality, producers aim for modest to low yields of 40–60 hectolitres per hectare to ensure intensity. Baden, in the southwest, is the biggest Spätburgunder zone (5,500 hectares), yielding small-batch rosés (1,000–5,000 bottles per wine) which are often sold directly on-site. The pink category now makes up 12% of national production, up from 7% ten years ago, reflecting its growing significance.
Do these wines express a sense of place? This depends on the winemaker`s method, but more often, they do, showing regional typicity with well-balanced winemaking techniques.
Refining pink: Crafted winemaking methods
The current surge in German rosé kicked off last century, after reds earned acclaim. In the 1980s and 1990s, winemakers embraced Burgundy-inspired techniques like reducing yields, timed skin contact and barrel maturation. Trained in precision, frequently overseas, they applied whole-cluster pressing and lees stirring/aging to add depth without weight. As Spätburgunder reds gained global recognition, rosé shifted subtly from the sideline to a deliberate craft. Inspired by the worldwide rosé wine boom, especially Provence, local producers launched dry, expressive rosés by the 2010s, echoing the Riesling revival of decades ago.
But colors play a key role: To attain the desired shade, options include saignée (bleeding free-run juice from reds), maceration (skin soaking), or direct pressing. Blending red and white wine – as mentioned earlier- is forbidden.
A faint salmon tone comes from direct pressing, minimizing the extraction of tannins. Brief maceration (4–24 hours) results in fuller profiles, whereas saignée creates structured, darker and vibrant versions. Some makers opt for prolonged maceration for the optimal balance between tannins and color. Others mature on lees to impart pastry-like notes, or in large oak to develop subtle character, while avoiding heavy woodiness. Minimalist styles, now prevalent, highlight a wine’s sense of place. Meanwhile, climate change aids maturity in areas that were once considered too cool, with cool nights maintaining acidity vital for rosé`s vibrancy.
What sets Spätburgunder Rosé apart?
These cool-climate pink wines excel through their origins. Unlike sun-ripened, robust rosés of Tavel or pale, citrus-blossom profiles from Provence, German editions emphasise freshness, backbone, and refined fruit essences. The weather suits Spätburgunder’s fragile skins and site sensitivity. The resulting offerings encompass a variety of aromas and tastes. Pale ones recall tangy berries like cranberry, wild strawberry and red currant, accentuated by rosehip herbs and mineral spark. They pair well with fresh seafood platters, poultry, and vegetarian dishes. In contrast, others provide silky layers and extraction, occasionally enhanced by barrel time, offering longevity and savory notes ideal for barbecues or cured meats. What they all have in common is a signature crispness from cool vineyards, with dry styles now predominant.
Is there a specific region in Germany?
Pink production aligns with red wine strongholds, spanning all 13 of Germany’s wine regions with varied expressions, shaped by regions and the winemaker’s intentions. The following highlights a mere sampling of the diversity. In southwestern Baden, a region that stands out for its volcanic soils and milder pockets, Spätburgunder rosés show notable richness. Bernhard Huber’s, for example, features strawberry notes and a creamy texture. Northward in the Mediterranean-like Pfalz, Müller-Ruprecht delivers a crisp, mineral-focused take, while Benedikt Bimmerle’s blends gentle fruit with hints of spice. Within the sunny and steep Ahr valley, Meyer-Näkel yields a spicy version. In drier Rheinhessen, Katharina Wechsler employs extended maceration for zesty, tannic profiles hinting at elderberry and blueberry.
Venturing beyond the traditional strongholds in the west to the former East German regions of Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen, which have limestone-rich soils, shows promise. Revived after reunification, these cooler spots craft focused, mineral-driven rosés. Weingut Schuh and Weinhandwerk Meissen offer elegant, nutty small-lot of Pinot Noir rosés, though they remain a niche product (under 10% of output). Back in the Mosel, famed for Riesling, Spätburgunder from Immich-Batterieberg or Frieden-Berg impart depth, smokiness and berry-herb layers; adding a distinctive dimension to Germany’s rosé selection.
Spotlight in the press
Leading German wine journals like Vinum, Meininger and Falstaff celebrate pinks via competitions such as World of Rosé, the Meininger International Rosé Preis and the Falstaff Rosé Trophy (German-exclusive). These competitions have elevated the perception of rosé as a high-quality category lately. The German Wine Institute’s 2022 international “Drink Pink” initiative amplifies the pink trend.
Raising the pink bubble
Germany’s transformation also extends to premium Winzersekt, combining the rosé trend with the renaissance for regionally produced traditional-method sparkling wines. Spätburgunder, central to Champagne production, plays a key role for Winzersekt, reflecting cellarmaster’s choices in diverse pink fizzes.
Makers like Sekthaus Raumland, Weingut Aldinger, Ökonomierat Rebholz, Bergdolt, Heinz Wagner, Höfer Sekt, Schloss Sommerhausen, Franz Keller and Griesel & Compagnie produce extended-aged versions. Styles vary from salty, mineral-driven, with cranberry and rose petal aroma to lush, yeasty ones displaying dried fruit and brioche, often highlighting notes of aging. All share that German zestiness, with hues from light to mid-range. Like still pinks, they shine with cuisine, a fact recognised by the world of gastronomy.
Beyond the glass: An emerging pink wine culture
In top restaurants, shops and bars, still and sparkling pinks are increasingly being featured alongside serious reds and whites. The diversity of styles, driven by regionality and makers’ touch, adds to their appeal. “Our aim is to create a rosé that invites contemplation, not just refreshment,” notes Stefan Braunewell of Weingut Braunewell on their Spätburgunder project, Dinter. “Whether it’s still or sparkling, it expresses a depth and complexity that is unique, neither red nor white.” This sentiment reflects a broader shift, offering an exploration that is both rewarding and layered with flavors and stories: While some winemakers seek to reflect the terroir in their wines, others focus on achieving the best expression through cellar handling.
Ultimately, Germany’s tradition, temperate zones, and innovative spirit position Spätburgunder rosés as benchmarks for characterful pinks. As the accolades grow, these wines – whether still or sparkling – stand as new classics. They are not imitations, but rather expressions of a unique sense of place and craftsmanship.
BIO:
Nicole Wolbers is dedicated to raising awareness of lesser-known traditional method sparkling wines. After a career as a textile engineer, a move to California ignited her passion for wine. She worked in Santa Barbara’s top wine shop, studied in Napa and London, and her WSET diploma thesis on bubbles earned her a Champagne Bureau UK nomination. Back in Germany, Nicole founded schaumweinmagazin.de to spotlight German Sekt through education and tastings. Now based near Berlin, she writes about wine, judges competitions, and holds both the WSET diploma and Cava Educator / Expert certification.
+49-175 9993904
nwolbers@schaumweinmagazin.de