By William F. O’Connor
In 1948, a popular song was added to the ever-growing body of what might be called the “carpe-diem genre,” “Enjoy Yourself,” a catchy song with lyrics that leave no room for ambiguity.
Enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think
Enjoy yourself, while you’re still in the pink
The years go by, as quickly as a wink
Enjoy yourself, enjoy yourself, it’s later than you think1
The “in the pink” reference is especially apropos here. Though elliptical – the full expression being in the pink of health – it is, depending upon one’s complexion, a good indicator of general health. Too far to the right of pink and one enters into the realm of febrile red; too far to the left and the wan face, like that of a fresh cadaver, suggests a more permanent state of ill health. Shades of pinkness – and there are quite a few: “Baker-Miller pink, Mountbatten pink, Puce, Fuchsia, Shocking pink, Fluorescent pink and Amaranth”2 – might be looked upon as a noninvasive thermometer sans mercury.
Pink in its various manifestations is also the color of the third and most neglected member of the wine trinity – rosé. (Notice how flight attendants in Economy never ask, “White, red, or rosé?”) Okay, okay, it’s a nice color, so why has it been handed the pink slip by many wine drinkers and derided by the odd expert or two, although one of them did an about-face on that a little while ago? Could they be bleating, “Ba, ba, pink juice, have you any fine wine?” I think so. For the casual wine drinker, at least, rosé seems to be more closely identified with its color than with its flavor profile. It’s a summer thing, a fling, a bit of frivolity, nothing more. Just tell that to the Portuguese, whose Mateus put Portugal on the map for a whole generation of American wine drinkers! Perhaps those who see rosé as something frivolous are unaware of the many variations on a theme that grape variety and terroir can bring to it.
Let us consider two of my favorite grape varieties, both of which are closely identified with Japan but little known outside of that country – Muscat Bailey A (MBA, catchy, isn’t it?) and Black Queen (BQ). These two venerable grapes are nearly and, quite frankly, puzzlingly eclipsed by the reliably bland Koshu.
MBA is sometimes dismissed as a variety that produces “candy-flavoured wines.”3 Undoubtedly, there are disappointing examples of this variety, but my experience has been that it is capable of producing wines of complexity and depth, especially when aged in oak. MBA was the creation of Japan’s most important and talented winemaker, Zenbei Kawakami (1868-1944) in his Niigata-based Iwanohara Winery. The story of Kawakami’s struggles is beyond the purview of this paper; suffice it to say that this is a “Vitis vinifera, Vitis labrusca and Vitis lincecumii hybrid….”4 Single, double, triple spells potential homerun to me.
BQ, another of Murakami’s creations, is even more obscure than MBA, and its hybridity is even more complex. It is a cross between Bailey and Golden Queen. Bailey’s pedigree is anything but simple, to say the least, but Golden Queen’s is…well, I’ll let Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours lay it out for you.
- Golden Queen is a Black Alicante x Ferdinand de Lesseps hybrid
- Black Alicante is a Spanish table grape variety that must not be confused with Trincadeira, which is called Black Alicante in Australia
- Ferdinand de Lesseps is a Chasselas x Isabella hybrid.5
Like MBA, it is a “Vitis vinifera, Vitis labrusca and Vitis lincecumii hybrid.”6 Excited? Well, you should be, but as the late-Ron Popeil, TV pitchman extraordinaire, might put it, “But wait, there’s more!” And there certainly is.
Japan’s preeminent wine-producing region is Yamanashi Prefecture. It has a well-deserved reputation, but in recent years, wineries located in other prefectures have begun to produce outstanding wines. One of those places is Yamagata Prefecture, which is located in northwest Honshu. Aside from quality wines, the prefecture is famous for premium ginjo-shu (a style of sake), cherries, pears, and peaches.
I encourage those inclined to take rosé seriously to sample some of Japan’s MBA and/or BQ rosé output from a prefecture of their choosing. I would recommend Yamagata, of course. The following sensory evaluation is of a wine called “Assemblage Rosé,” from Bellwood Vineyard, Yamagata. It is a blend of Muscat Bailey A (70%), Black Queen (12%), Merlot (11%), Cabernet Sauvignon (6%), and Cabernet Franc (1%). That adds up to 100%, right?
Sensory Evaluation: Color: A slightly darker shade of full-bloom, cherry-blossom pink, a quintessential in-the-pink hue. Nose: aromatic with floral and honey notes. MBA characteristics are evident, which is not surprising considering the percentage breakdown. Palate: Subtle sweetness gives way to a refreshing acidity. There is a degree of astringency here, presumably owing to the presence of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Bonus: Though not a sparkling wine, there is a level of effervescence here that enlivens the beverage. The finish is medium (+) and the ABV 11%.
I started this essay on a musical note, and I will end it on one, too. Rosé can be serious. The world of fine rosé is not limited to places like Provence and Tavel or to varieties like Cinsaut and Grenache. All it takes to find some of the other places and grape varieties is a spirit of adventure and openness to new experiences. Perhaps The Crystals, that 60s-era girl group from New York City, express this sentiment best in the hit song “He’s a Rebel,” which they apparently did not record. If that sounds odd, it certainly is. Interested readers are encouraged to explore that story on their own. In the meantime, ponder these words while sipping some rosé.
When he holds my hand, I’m so proud
Cause he’s not just one of the crowd
My baby’s always the one to try the things they’ve never done….7
Advice: Try the things you’ve never done!
References
1https://genius.com/Guy-lombardo-enjoy-yourself-its-later-than-you-think-lyrics
2St. Clair, K., The Secret Lives of Color (London: John Murray [Publishers], 2016).
3Robinson, J., et al. Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours (UK: Penguin, 2012).
4Ibid.
5Ibid.
6Ibid.
7https://www.lyricsondemand.com/crystals/hes_a_rebel
William F. O’Connor, Ed.D., DipWSET, Professor Emeritus, Asia University (Tokyo), runs the blog drinkingjapan.org and is a co-author of the book Drinking Japan: It’s Not Just Sake (Sanshusha, 2019). In addition to his wine credentials, he holds beer and sake certifications, is a Whisky Ambassador, and holds a graduate certificate in Gastronomic Tourism from Southern Cross University/Le Cordon Bleu. He can be reached at williamoconnor@yahoo.com.